I am always shocked by the chaotic movement of people in Marrakech.  They are everywhere on mopeds and bikes, on foot, in cars, in donkey and mule drawn carts, in horse-drawn carriages, on buses.  But it is never more staggering than the hour before Iftar (the meal that breaks the fast) during Ramadan when the streets are abuzz in every possible criss-crossing direction, like a chaotic ant colony, as people rush to buy last minute items or fly home eager to break the fast.  (Subsequently, when the cannon fires, signaling the day's fast over the streets are as barren as a empty movie set. It's unreal.)

Traffic in Marrakech swirls, it turns, shuffles and merges in some incomprehensible dance, forever weaving in a dangerous and amazing fashion. Centimeters are considered adequate passing space.  U-turns across four lanes of busy traffic are standard practice. Its a mind-boggling ballet which takes some time to become accustomed to...and then there are still moments that warrant a sharp intake of breath.

Taxis in particular, like taxis everywhere to a certain extent, seem to defy what is possible. They speed down incredibly badly paved streets nearly taking flight on the potholes, they make screeching turns, they cut off other cars and stop on a dime. Taxi rides in Marrakech are a leap of faith.

Moped drivers, too, are daredevils. They are fearless. They seem always to be a mere hairsbreadth from much larger, sturdier vehicles, often talking on mobile phones, listening to headphones or holding hands with bicycle riders, in effect towing them. 

Making the whole seething throng of traffic even more interesting is the true love of horn use here. Horns are used for warning, hellos, to get attention of cars and pedestrians and sometimes, it seems, just for fun.  Instead of cat calls, there are horn honks....plenty of them.  Someone recently said to me the true definition of a nano-second is the time it takes a Moroccan to honk when the light turns green.

It has been suggested to me that I endeavor to drive here, rent or buy a car, for short and long trips.  I vehemently protest this idea and know it will never happen. Its taken three years of visits to become a comfortable passenger. It would probably take ten more to consider getting behind the wheel.  

Typical Marrakech traffic. I love the mule. I love that the bus is pink!



Finally figured it out!!!
Marrakech traffic. This was taken on a Tuesday night around 11:30pm. It's way crazier during the day time.

 

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