Been lazy about updating and Im seriously behind.
Lets see…where was I last…ah yes…sick in Casablanca.
Well…I got better…and we headed off to Fes.
(Sunset on the train to Fes)


We hit Fes just in time for the World Sacred Music Fesitval. There were performances every night, and they could be heard from all around the neighborhood. Some interesting music…but the poor organizers!…they kept getting rained out!
(Fesitval)

Each evening we were in Fes, storms hit. Crazy thunder and lightening storms…my favorite kind. Big, fat raindrops feel slowly, while lightening flashes every couple of seconds amidst the omonious stormclouds, rolling over the mountains in the the distance. I stood atop our hotel on the roof terrace, intent on getting a picture of some lightening! Zakaria got a bit bored of my obstinance and headed to the market to buy some fruit while I stayed at my perch, determined! It finally paid off…Ive got a couple shots…and, as usual, no wireless or USB connection. Will post the proof soon though…promise.
(Before the storm rolled in)

(Lightening! The storms were amazing!)

Fes was an interesting place. The medina stretched forever, a maze of shops and markets, dirt and grime. Its a dirty little city, in need of much repair. Its a shame too, because under the dust, its really quite pretty.
(One of the main entrances to the Medina, as seen from my hotel)

It was also seriously hot when we were there. Hot and humid…much like NYC in August. Each afternoon the hotel was full of people, taking cues from the Spanish, and siesta-ing away from the sun.
We didnt find all that much to hold our interest there…so we decided to head out…but not before we met a group of crazy musicians!
One night getting dinner in a nearby rooftop cafe we befriended the entertainment…a trio of Ghanawa performers in full regalia. Quite a group…let me tell you. The instruments are simple, a three string guitar-like instrument they I continually forget the name of (sorry Zakaria…forgot AGAIN!), metal castanet like objects and sometimes a drum. They chant and dance…and all but fall asleep with their hash pipe. They were hats, robes and sashes with seashells…all of which they make themselves…along with the instruments. The hats are goofy…fezes with tassles they spin around their heads as they dance, or beanies with rasta-like braids coming out. I of couse was made to try them on…but thats one picture Im not posting!
(Our crazy musician friends! -looking quite alert, yes? -Hope to took up this image later)

Our second night in the same cafe, the musicians greeted us as old friends. I couldnt talk to them directly, but Zakaria translated when necessary and we all hung out fiddling with instruments and dancing. It was wacky. Truly.
I decided to give them some cash for their performance…and 10 dirham (about $1.15) got me music, dancing, great photo and video clips…and a bunch of happy new friends!
Next it was off to Chefchaouen…an amazing little village set in the Rif mountains.

It was in starch contrast to Fes…quite and peaceful, cool and green. It looks like a spanish town, all white-washed and blue trim, and most of the people there speak Spanish…and Arabic…and French! Its full of hippies who come to smoke the hash grown in the Rif mountains and stay. I can see why too…the town is gorgeous.

Around every single corner is a new, pretty little vista that you have to stop and appreciate. Cobbled-streets, mountains looming, cute houses with bright blue trim, pathways and stairs that seem impossible…its entirely picturesque.

It wasnt until we followed a little waterfall up hill, and came across the local women washing clothes in the river, amidst lush green hills and patios, that the beauty of the town fully hit me.
(Local women washing clothes in the river)

Its a little paradise…enhanced by the fact that everyone you meet is a shiney-happy person, helpful and kind, eager to say hello. Walking through town the second day we came across the frontdesk guy of our hotel who greeted us like old friend, a huge smile on his face. Such an amazing place…I cant wait to go back!

The last morning in Chefchaouen (Ive never seen so many vowels in a row!) I realized I still had some little toy cars, like matchbox cars, Id bought to give to little kids. Zakaria and I split them up, stuffed them in our pockets, grabbed our bags and headed out. Along the way to the main plaza we came across some kids. Zakaria handed a little car to a woman who was carrying a toddler. Suddenly there were a million little kids swarming around us! Hola, hola, hola! they yelled, eager to recieve a toy. We tried to make sure each child only got one, and I think we succeded…and soon realized it was just 6 kids making a whole lot of racket!
(Some of Chefchaoens children)

I still had 2 cars left…but everytime I saw another child there were a whole group of them…I didnt want to start mayhem. I finally spotted 2 glum little boys sitting on a doorstep, looking bored. I walked up to them and pulled the remaining cars from my pocket, placing one in the hands of each of them. They looked at them blankly, and at me in the same manor. I smiled and started to walk away…and had just rounded a corner a few steps away when they broke into manical giggles, and I turned to see them dacing in the street!
We stopped to get lunch in a cafe in the plaza before heading to the bus, and while we were sitting there I started to notice our new little friends, peeking at us from the crowd. Realizing theyd been spotted they smiled hopefully at us that we had more toys for them! We had to tell them we didnt and send them on their way. They were a little bummed, but then brightened, pulling the cars from their pockets and running off. Entirely cute….just like everything else in Chefchaouen.
We had good fortune at the bus station, and arrived to find the right bus leaving in 10 minutes. We boarded and headed off to our last stop…Tangier.
Im not a fan of Tangier…its a port city in all the worse senses…dirty, hectic, with lots of shady characters. We stayed in the New City area, away from the crazy medina, right next to the sea.
We grabbed a bite to eat at a nearby cafe…after Zakaria finally realized I was NOT going to eat escargot (snails) from a street vendor…no way, no how! We took a seat and noticed the street kids milling about. One was desperatly asking a nearby table, who were almost finished their meal, for some food. I dont know what he said or if he was just being a pest, but the old, grandma lady and the table got up and threw her glass on water on him.
The kids all hovered, waiting for a table to finish their meal and then rushed in and grabbed whatever was left. Zakaria and I got sandwiches, and neither of us was too hungry…we had a lot left. Zak whistled to one of the kids and gave him his sandwich. There was even more left to mine, so Zak took it and walked over to some of the other, split it in half and gave it to them, then asked the 1st kid with his sandwich to split it with another guy…making sure all the kids wed seen around got some food. Very diplomatic of Zakaria, Id say. Well done. All the kids were happy enough…till the next meal.
Otherwise, really not much to tell here…we watched a movie on my laptop…thats about it.
The next day I headed to the port for my boat…and had the same problem as my trip to Morocco. The boat that was supposed to leave at 3 didnt show till 4:30…and didnt leave till 6:30…which is 8:30 by Spanish time. It took 2.5 hours, getting me back to Spain at 11, and stranding me in Algeciras for the night…the ugly little port town on the other side of the strait. Oh well…

So…what I thought would be 1week-10 days in Morocco blossumed into nearly a month.
This is the route I took…I orignally thought Id just hit Marrakech and Fes, maybe.

The country is beautiful, rugged and diverse. The people are interesting, warm and friendly. Theres artwork everywhere. The food is amazing. The music is fun. Theres adventure and tranquility, cities and nature. And to top it all off…its incredibly affordable.
I cant wait to go back…and I cant reccomend it enough to everyone…
Cheers,
*Liz